Panama
The days are flying by as the expedition comes to a close. On Tuesday I'll be boarding a flight in Panama City and landing in Denver 11 hours later. When I think of Panama, not much comes to mind. This just demonstrates my ignorance - Panama has offered one of the most diverse and interesting experiences of the trip.
Boquete is a small mountain town north of David near Panama's coffee-producing region. The weather was much cooler then anything we've experienced lately (it reminded me of summertime in the Rockies) and apparently many Americans vacation there. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to see much but I can definitely recommend it as a destination.
Our next night was spent in Playa las Lajas at a small hotel on the beach. Sadly, it was our last night on the ocean. The hotel we stayed at had clearly undergone recent renovation and the whole group was all disappointed to leave after one night. The beach was nearly empty and the ocean was the warmest of the entire trip. One or two more degrees and it would have been bathwater. Dinner was particularly enjoyable - we were told to seek out the local German restaurant. A restaurant serving German cuisine seemed out of place in such a small town and we all had a good chuckle when we realized the restaurant was run by Germans and had no German food. Everything was excellent and it was one of the best meals of the trip.
Our next destination was a small town about 100 kilometers outside of Panama City. The local RV Park was run by some American expats and had some very nice facilities (for an RV park). They had a pool, sports bar with satellite, and wireless internet. Unfortunately, we couldn't turn the lights on. The park was technically closed on Tuesdays and if we turned on the lights, his local customers would demand to be let in.
On Wednesday we finally tackled Panama City. The traffic wasn't quite as bad as we feared and after meeting our local contact/guide, Peter, we headed to our hotel. Peter's girlfriend Laura took all of the girls out to the mall while we headed to meet with our shipping agent. Our shipping agent Evelyn is a very short, very round, and very heavy woman. We got all our documents in order and she instructed what forms to fill out, where the trucks had to be, etc. This was the first time we had the entire process laid out in front of us and it was quite a surprise.
Here's a step-by-step list of what the exportation process entails:
1. Meet with Evelyn - very easy. We were told to get the vehicles inspected at the police station, which is in a very dangerous neighborhood.
2. Police Inspection - it turns out the exact process isn't as simple as simply getting your vehicle inspected. When you show up, the police will tell you to come back tomorrow. When you show up at 11:00 AM the next day, you will spend the entire day waiting for this process to be completed. We didn't finish the process until 5:30 PM. James went to go get some ice cream and was told by a police officer to stay in his car and lock the doors.
3. Complete the customs process and drop the truck off at the port - it turns out that the customs office/port is two hours north of Panama City. This means on March 30, we have to get up at the crack of dawn and hit the road so we make it back at a decent enough time to pack our bags before we leave.
It's quite a painful process.
Panama City itself is quite interesting. It's quite compact and is filled with high-rise residential towers and office buildings. We saw at least a dozen tall buildings under construction. One very cool thing is the conversion of military bases into residential areas. When the canal was turned over to Panama, they also received all the US military bases. These have become suburbs for Panama City's wealthy residents. In two or three years it will be quite a city. Unfortunately, the traffic is horrendous. Many intersections have no stoplights or signage and rush hour traffic is brutal.
The Canal is beautiful. I'm going to leave this to your imagination until I make it to the Visitors Center and am able to get some more information. My parents and I went out for dinner at a restaurant located on the Panama Canal. All evening long we were able to watch the ships travel by. It really is an enormous engineering feat. I'll try to give you some more info after I complete my museum visit.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Our stay at Rafiki Lodge has been very enjoyable.
Our first activity was completing a nature hike with Lautjie. After a hearty breakfast of pancakes, the we loaded up into a truck and drove up into the hills to the trailhead. The entrance to the trail has been carefully camouflaged in order to hide it from individuals who may have intentions other then enjoying undisturbed nature. It was extremely hot and humid during our walk but we saw some very interesting wildlife. The most visually striking creature was a poison arrow frog. The indigenous people used to capture these frogs and then torture them because they release a neurotoxin when distressed. Arrowheads would then be dipped into this poisonous fluid and then used for hunting. They have a black and fluorescent green color scheme which is very visually distinctive.
However the most interesting creature encountered was the leaf-cutter ant. They get their name from the fact that they cut leaves and then take the pieces back to their colonies. One of the very cool things about them is that there are many specialized ants all contributing different abilities. There are trail-clearing ants which patrol up and down the trail they have cut, eliminating obstacles and watching for predators. These guys are big. Then you have the smaller guys that actually do the cutting and carrying of the leaf fragments. There is even a very small ant that rides on top of the leaf fragments to watch for flies.
Rafting was also very enjoyable. It was pretty mellow overall and I think I spent more time out of the boat then in it.
Last night was spent on Playa Las Lajas, where we found a gem of a hotel right on the beach. Sadly, the bar and restaurant are closed on Mondays but we had a wonderful meal at a restaurant run by some very nice German folks. They had just opened and I was the first to order a cocktail called the "Russian Quaalude". Dinner was a very well prepared chorizo. The Germans really know how to cook up some sausage.
Tomorrow is going to be a big day as we get our trucks inspected and attempt to brave the Panama City traffic.
Our first activity was completing a nature hike with Lautjie. After a hearty breakfast of pancakes, the we loaded up into a truck and drove up into the hills to the trailhead. The entrance to the trail has been carefully camouflaged in order to hide it from individuals who may have intentions other then enjoying undisturbed nature. It was extremely hot and humid during our walk but we saw some very interesting wildlife. The most visually striking creature was a poison arrow frog. The indigenous people used to capture these frogs and then torture them because they release a neurotoxin when distressed. Arrowheads would then be dipped into this poisonous fluid and then used for hunting. They have a black and fluorescent green color scheme which is very visually distinctive.
However the most interesting creature encountered was the leaf-cutter ant. They get their name from the fact that they cut leaves and then take the pieces back to their colonies. One of the very cool things about them is that there are many specialized ants all contributing different abilities. There are trail-clearing ants which patrol up and down the trail they have cut, eliminating obstacles and watching for predators. These guys are big. Then you have the smaller guys that actually do the cutting and carrying of the leaf fragments. There is even a very small ant that rides on top of the leaf fragments to watch for flies.
Rafting was also very enjoyable. It was pretty mellow overall and I think I spent more time out of the boat then in it.
Last night was spent on Playa Las Lajas, where we found a gem of a hotel right on the beach. Sadly, the bar and restaurant are closed on Mondays but we had a wonderful meal at a restaurant run by some very nice German folks. They had just opened and I was the first to order a cocktail called the "Russian Quaalude". Dinner was a very well prepared chorizo. The Germans really know how to cook up some sausage.
Tomorrow is going to be a big day as we get our trucks inspected and attempt to brave the Panama City traffic.
Monday, March 23, 2009
We made it to Panama. The border crossing was dicey, we had to pay some woman $50.00 in order to import my vehicle. Luckily it all worked out. We spent the night in Boquete and our time in Panama is going to be quite busy as we attempt to make it to the Darien Gap and ship our vehicles home. It looks like I'll be returning to the states on 3/31.
Chuck
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Well, the rest of our night at Lake Arenal was quite relaxing. We didn’t encounter any bags containing bodies. In fact, we experienced zero criminal activity that night. Life went on after our brief but interesting encounter with the police and we grilled steaks for dinner. After our evening meal, Scott put together a slide-show so Anne could get caught up on all our adventures and the group contributed a running narrative. It was the first time most of us had seen his photos so this was actually quite interesting. If he uses 1/32 of his photos, all of the Overland Journal subscribers will be in for a real treat (shameless plug: there’s a remote chance I may end up with a photo published so do myself and Scott a favor and subscribe).
One event of note: I was just about to drift off to sleep when a truck drove through our campsite. This scared the hell out of me until I realized it was probably the police patrolling the area. I was too frightened to actually verify that fact, but it’s a lot more comforting then the thought of someone casually driving through our campsite to drop off a body stuffed into a bag.
Our morning was leisurely and we took the opportunity to drive into the nearby town of Neuvo Arenal for breakfast. Interestingly enough, NA is home to a German bakery. We had stopped by the night before as it was closing and couldn’t get served. The allure of breakfast, internet, and delicious German sausages seduced our group and it was there we dined. The Gringo Breakfast (two scrambled eggs, one sausage, three slices of toast, and orange juice) proved to be a wise choice on my part.
After breakfast, we hit the road. We didn’t get far until we ran into a group of about thirty coatis. These are small mammals related to the raccoon. They were quite friendly and used to humans, almost to the point where it could be mistaken for aggression. One kept walking towards James and just didn’t stop. It was quite a scene. A coati basically looks like a racoon with a long, skinny tail and white vertical stripes along the body.
Most of the drive was fairly ordinary (basically the same jaw-dropping scenery we see everyday) except for a brief excursion through a super narrow residential area where we came close to clipping some 18-wheelers.
Camp for the night was the Best Western Jaco. Jaco is a pretty awful town which I would not recommend. The beaches were crowded, the town was smelly, and it drove home the point that Costa Rica should be seen from a rented beachside house in the middle of nowhere.
Now we’re at Rafiki Lodge. I’ve only been here 8 hours, but it’s pretty awesome. The food has been phenomenal and we haven’t experienced any of the activities but I will stand by my review because it succeeds where every other place we’ve stayed has failed: the waterslide factor.
Rafiki Lodge features an extremely fast concrete waterslide which would never be approved anywhere in the US. This is why it’s so much fun. I must have ridden it ten times this afternoon.
Tomorrow we’re going on a natural history hike. I’m sure I will have some interesting jungle facts for all you guys.
Also, I’ve heard some of you are trying to comment on my entries. It’s pretty hard for me to view these at the moment due to the horrible internet connections I’ve been using. Keep commenting and I’ll check them out and respond to them as soon as possible.
Chuck
One event of note: I was just about to drift off to sleep when a truck drove through our campsite. This scared the hell out of me until I realized it was probably the police patrolling the area. I was too frightened to actually verify that fact, but it’s a lot more comforting then the thought of someone casually driving through our campsite to drop off a body stuffed into a bag.
Our morning was leisurely and we took the opportunity to drive into the nearby town of Neuvo Arenal for breakfast. Interestingly enough, NA is home to a German bakery. We had stopped by the night before as it was closing and couldn’t get served. The allure of breakfast, internet, and delicious German sausages seduced our group and it was there we dined. The Gringo Breakfast (two scrambled eggs, one sausage, three slices of toast, and orange juice) proved to be a wise choice on my part.
After breakfast, we hit the road. We didn’t get far until we ran into a group of about thirty coatis. These are small mammals related to the raccoon. They were quite friendly and used to humans, almost to the point where it could be mistaken for aggression. One kept walking towards James and just didn’t stop. It was quite a scene. A coati basically looks like a racoon with a long, skinny tail and white vertical stripes along the body.
Most of the drive was fairly ordinary (basically the same jaw-dropping scenery we see everyday) except for a brief excursion through a super narrow residential area where we came close to clipping some 18-wheelers.
Camp for the night was the Best Western Jaco. Jaco is a pretty awful town which I would not recommend. The beaches were crowded, the town was smelly, and it drove home the point that Costa Rica should be seen from a rented beachside house in the middle of nowhere.
Now we’re at Rafiki Lodge. I’ve only been here 8 hours, but it’s pretty awesome. The food has been phenomenal and we haven’t experienced any of the activities but I will stand by my review because it succeeds where every other place we’ve stayed has failed: the waterslide factor.
Rafiki Lodge features an extremely fast concrete waterslide which would never be approved anywhere in the US. This is why it’s so much fun. I must have ridden it ten times this afternoon.
Tomorrow we’re going on a natural history hike. I’m sure I will have some interesting jungle facts for all you guys.
Also, I’ve heard some of you are trying to comment on my entries. It’s pretty hard for me to view these at the moment due to the horrible internet connections I’ve been using. Keep commenting and I’ll check them out and respond to them as soon as possible.
Chuck
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
The Rich Coast
Life is good in Costa Rica. We’ve spent the last two days on the beach near Playa Tamarindo soaking up the waves and the sun. Our border crossing was smooth, but lengthy. Unfortunately it was the last step in the process which took the longest. We ended up getting in line behind a group of Nicaraguans with incomplete papers but once they got their act together, things went swimmingly.
Costa Rica has a heavy American presence. One doesn’t just see lots of white folks wandering around - you find American brands, stores, and eateries. This is quite a contrast with the countries we’ve travelled in previously. Not even Mexico has such a heavy American presence. I enjoyed a wonderful BBQ Bacon Tendercrisp sandwich at the local Burger King location in Liberia.
After picking my mom up, we grocery shopped and hit the road. Playa Tamarindo is less then 2 hours from Liberia so it’s a fairly busy place. Lots of surfers and other assorted tourists on the beach. Interestingly enough, when we pulled up on Sunday it was absolutely swamped. After some preliminary recon work, we found some public beach access where we could set up camp. The only caveat was that we had to avoid a sea turtle nesting site.
Monday was spent simply, with lots of time spent swimming and relaxing. I did some reading, went for a walk, and swam. The surf camp next door prepared us a tasty lunch and we met some American ex-pats who filled us in on life in Costa Rica. One very cool thing about our campsite was the amount of hermit-crabs crawling around. Each evening around high tide all of the crabs would begin to come out of their burrows and hunt for food. If you waited until after dark, you could find some really big ones running around. Dinner was a simple affair. We grilled some chicken sausages and enjoyed the relaxed pace of life.
The great thing about these small Central American nations is that even on our travel days, we still have time to stop and enjoy the day. Today was Scott’s day and per his request, we stopped and completed a canopy tour (these things are great and I’m pretty sure everyone would have wanted to do it anyway). A canopy tour is simple: you scale a large tree and travel through the forest canopy on zip lines. This one had 11 different platforms and featured one line where you could traverse upside down. We saw some wildlife as well - a massive iguana and some howler monkeys relaxing in the shade.
At lunch we discussed how we should (tentatively) spend the rest of our time in Costa Rica. John and Tammy felt strongly about traveling down the Pacific coast so they are doing exactly that. The rest of our crew decided to travel to Lake Arenal.
The drive was beautiful. It’s very reminiscent of Lake Geneva. There are lots of very interesting small coffee shops. We stopped at a very nice establishment called the Macadamia Farm. After enjoying the leisurely drive to our beautiful campsite on the lake, we had one of the most interesting events of the trip occur.
The group was enjoying cocktails when a dented old truck passes us. Soon a police truck passes us and turns on it’s lights. We speculate for about 20 minutes until the two trucks leave. The police truck stops to talk to us and asks how long we’ve been here, how many people have been here and what kind of cars they were driving. Soon Scott and James receive this message “If you see someone dumping a bag containing a body in the lake, let us know. There has been a homicide. But this is a very safe area to camp. Tranquil.”
Interesting, eh?
Costa Rica has a heavy American presence. One doesn’t just see lots of white folks wandering around - you find American brands, stores, and eateries. This is quite a contrast with the countries we’ve travelled in previously. Not even Mexico has such a heavy American presence. I enjoyed a wonderful BBQ Bacon Tendercrisp sandwich at the local Burger King location in Liberia.
After picking my mom up, we grocery shopped and hit the road. Playa Tamarindo is less then 2 hours from Liberia so it’s a fairly busy place. Lots of surfers and other assorted tourists on the beach. Interestingly enough, when we pulled up on Sunday it was absolutely swamped. After some preliminary recon work, we found some public beach access where we could set up camp. The only caveat was that we had to avoid a sea turtle nesting site.
Monday was spent simply, with lots of time spent swimming and relaxing. I did some reading, went for a walk, and swam. The surf camp next door prepared us a tasty lunch and we met some American ex-pats who filled us in on life in Costa Rica. One very cool thing about our campsite was the amount of hermit-crabs crawling around. Each evening around high tide all of the crabs would begin to come out of their burrows and hunt for food. If you waited until after dark, you could find some really big ones running around. Dinner was a simple affair. We grilled some chicken sausages and enjoyed the relaxed pace of life.
The great thing about these small Central American nations is that even on our travel days, we still have time to stop and enjoy the day. Today was Scott’s day and per his request, we stopped and completed a canopy tour (these things are great and I’m pretty sure everyone would have wanted to do it anyway). A canopy tour is simple: you scale a large tree and travel through the forest canopy on zip lines. This one had 11 different platforms and featured one line where you could traverse upside down. We saw some wildlife as well - a massive iguana and some howler monkeys relaxing in the shade.
At lunch we discussed how we should (tentatively) spend the rest of our time in Costa Rica. John and Tammy felt strongly about traveling down the Pacific coast so they are doing exactly that. The rest of our crew decided to travel to Lake Arenal.
The drive was beautiful. It’s very reminiscent of Lake Geneva. There are lots of very interesting small coffee shops. We stopped at a very nice establishment called the Macadamia Farm. After enjoying the leisurely drive to our beautiful campsite on the lake, we had one of the most interesting events of the trip occur.
The group was enjoying cocktails when a dented old truck passes us. Soon a police truck passes us and turns on it’s lights. We speculate for about 20 minutes until the two trucks leave. The police truck stops to talk to us and asks how long we’ve been here, how many people have been here and what kind of cars they were driving. Soon Scott and James receive this message “If you see someone dumping a bag containing a body in the lake, let us know. There has been a homicide. But this is a very safe area to camp. Tranquil.”
Interesting, eh?
Sunday, March 15, 2009
It's been a relaxing couple of days on the road so far. We spent the entirety of Friday hanging out on the beach and essentially doing nothing. I spent my day reading, drinking beer and swimming. What else do you need? I did manage to work out some of the kinks in my Jeep with Scott's help (actually he worked out most of the kinks with barely any of my help). The drag link is now straightened so I can turn left again and we tightened some screws on the rooftop tent. It turns out the fiberglass wasn't shaped right on the topper and some of the temporary fixes made at the shop are starting to fail. I'll be alright for the rest of the trip but the Jeep needs to hit the shop for some serious maintenance when I hit the states.
Unfortunately, my stomach hasn't been cooperating with me very well lately. It started late Thursday night and peaked Friday evening. Good thing we're packing antibiotics. I started a Cipro regimen and thinks have been clearing up nicely. I must have eaten some questionable meat along the way.
Yesterday we arrived in the town of San Jorge. It's a small village mostly known for providing a ferry to Ometepe. Ometepe is an island formed by two volcanoes in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. It's an intimidating site, as it rises directly from a very flat area. We didn't get hear early enough to make to take the ferry over to the island but we did get to view it.
Today my mother makes her return to our journey. We're crossing the border into Costa Rica and picking her up in Liberia. Hopefully all goes smoothly.
Chuck
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Bats in the belfry
Well, I’ve finally had a chance to experience what Nicaragua is known for: the beach. The next 36 hours or so are being spent on the Pacific side of the Nicaraguan coast and I can see what all the fuss is about.
Last night we camped at the edge of the Masaya volcano. Normally, this isn’t possible but we had read about it happening on certain occasions. They didn’t want to let us camp there, but Scott’s credentials and our encounter with the Minister of Ecology helped us secure spots for the night.
The highlight of the night was our descent into a cave home to 20,000 bats. We spent about an hour and a half doing a pretty nasty overland trail near the volcano. The track we took had previously been open to tourists, but seismic activity had caused the track to shift and it showed. I think I shook a filling loose. No one was going to get a truck stuck like in the jungle, but there was a serious chance of damaging a vehicle.
Soon after our trail adventure, we put on hard-hats and descended into a hot, humid cave home to a multitude of bats. If everyone turned out their lights, you could feel them flapping around you. The fact that none of us was hit by a bat is a testament to their echolocation skills. The floor was also covered in bat guano so one had to tread lightly. The cave was easily one of the best experiences on the trip. Absolutely astounding.
The rest of our evening was interesting if not quite as exciting. We descended into a lava tube and viewed areas which were used for ceremonial purposes by indigenous peoples. The evening’s activities concluded with the group scaling the rim of the volcano and peering down into the clouds of toxic gas, hoping to catch a glimpse of red-hot magma below us. The winds were in our favor and we were able to see a fait red glow at the bottom of the volcano. The fact that we were even able to see it is amazing considering we were 260 meters from the bottom.
Today was spent driving to our current location of Las Salinas, a quiet beachside town home to a number of surfing camps. Our trucks have taken a heavy beating and decided collectively that today was the day to break down. Luckily we’ve been able to resolve almost everything and I think tomorrow will be spent relaxing and unwinding.
Chuck
Last night we camped at the edge of the Masaya volcano. Normally, this isn’t possible but we had read about it happening on certain occasions. They didn’t want to let us camp there, but Scott’s credentials and our encounter with the Minister of Ecology helped us secure spots for the night.
The highlight of the night was our descent into a cave home to 20,000 bats. We spent about an hour and a half doing a pretty nasty overland trail near the volcano. The track we took had previously been open to tourists, but seismic activity had caused the track to shift and it showed. I think I shook a filling loose. No one was going to get a truck stuck like in the jungle, but there was a serious chance of damaging a vehicle.
Soon after our trail adventure, we put on hard-hats and descended into a hot, humid cave home to a multitude of bats. If everyone turned out their lights, you could feel them flapping around you. The fact that none of us was hit by a bat is a testament to their echolocation skills. The floor was also covered in bat guano so one had to tread lightly. The cave was easily one of the best experiences on the trip. Absolutely astounding.
The rest of our evening was interesting if not quite as exciting. We descended into a lava tube and viewed areas which were used for ceremonial purposes by indigenous peoples. The evening’s activities concluded with the group scaling the rim of the volcano and peering down into the clouds of toxic gas, hoping to catch a glimpse of red-hot magma below us. The winds were in our favor and we were able to see a fait red glow at the bottom of the volcano. The fact that we were even able to see it is amazing considering we were 260 meters from the bottom.
Today was spent driving to our current location of Las Salinas, a quiet beachside town home to a number of surfing camps. Our trucks have taken a heavy beating and decided collectively that today was the day to break down. Luckily we’ve been able to resolve almost everything and I think tomorrow will be spent relaxing and unwinding.
Chuck
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Leon Pt. 2
Today was a busy day in Leon. I managed to knock out about three museums today. The first was the local art museum, which mainly consisted of Central American artists. It also featured several sketches from more well-known artists like Picasso, Miro, and Chagall. Considering it cost less then two dollars to enter, it was definitely worth it.
The second and perhaps most interesting museum was the FSLN Revolution museum. This is a museum dedicated to telling the story of the FSLN (Sandinista Revolution). It's about as close to raw history as one gets - the exhibits consist of xerox'd newspaper articles arranged on the wall and our tour was conducted by an former Sandinista fighter.
The third museum was an entomological museum run by a Belgian man. It was small and personal, with the exhibits consisting mostly of insects that he wasn't cleaning or cataloging. Very cool.
My Dad and I grabbed a couple of beers at the near-by Cedar House, which is run by a Canadian. It felt good to watch some of the World Baseball Classic while drinking some brew.
That's it for the day. Tomorrow we head for Masaya.
Guatemala Pt. 3
Welcome to the third and final installment of the Guatemala trilogy.
This is what we woke up to at our second campsite. We camped at Holmul, an unexcavated Mayan city. These cities are a dime a dozen and unfortunately the Guatemalan government doesn't have the funds to dig these up. Mexico has realized the tourism potential of these cities. Holmul was full of mounds like one pictured below, which are actually buried Mayan structures.
The Jeep. This is what I usually sleep in. The roof tent is unfolded in this shot.
My father found it particularly amusing to have me stand next to this Help Wanted sign, which was found in the middle of the jungle, miles away from anywhere.
Boats cruising on Lake Peten.
A shot of Isla Flores.
A shot of Isla Flores.
This concludes Guatemala.
Guatemala Pt. 2
Welcome to the second installment of my Guatemalan adventure.
This is the best preserved Mayan steamroom ever found. Yes, the Mayans enjoyed a good steam. Not pictured is the cute Spanish architecture student who was sketching each individual brick. Apparently girls are really into Mayan architecture.
Some cool foundations with a large temple in the background.
A very cool temple. You can see areas where it's been fully reconstructed compared to areas where other phases of construction have been exposed.
This is what our trail looked like. Vegetation was closing in on all sides.
The view out of the passenger window.
Guatemala Pt. 1
The next couple of posts will highlight our trip into the Guatemalan jungle. This was the real deal.
Below is our first campsite. We didn't get here until 10:30 PM. Obviously, this was taken the morning after. Not pictured are the staff buildings located nearby - this is the site of ongoing Mayan excavations.
I don't think this photo needs an explanation.
This was a phenomenal temple located in the city of Nakum. The modern excavation and renovation techniques really shine in the next couple of photos.
The lower levels of a temple:
A partially reconstructed wall:
A partially reconstructed wall:
Here's another photo update. This post should provide a visual dictionary to our time in Belize.
This is one of the best photos that I've taken on this trip. This was taken on our way to 5 Blues Lake after we made a wrong turn.
Our camp the next morning.
5 Blues Lake. Taken during an early morning hike.
An absolutely mint Defender. This truck was so gorgeous. After visiting 5 Blues, we stopped at a facility operated by a Land Rover enthusiast who only dealt with Defenders. He had an astounding collection.
He even had a couple of Camel Trophy vehicles. These were beauties.
Stay tuned for the next episode!
Exit Mexico
After a lot of promises on my part and even more waiting on your part, I'm finally uploading some photos to satisfy your visual cravings. This first post is made up of images from our last stop in Mexico, a resort called Costa de Cocos.
Scott's Jeep enjoys the Yucatan sun:
Nice scenery, eh?
Dave's LT cools off in the shade:
My father contemplating the next step in our journey:
Group shot - notice that I'm not exactly among my peers.
Thus ends Mexico.
Monday, March 9, 2009
Catching up
I hope this isn’t too confusing, but I’m going to go back and talk more about Honduras even though I’m currently in Nicaragua.
We crossed the border and entered Copan Ruinas on March 5th. The narrow streets of the city center proved to be a formidable challenge for the LT so Dad waited near the entrance while James, Scott and I attempted to find a suitable establishment. We did find an enterprising young man who tried to help us find a camp site, but the one he showed us was a public campground which did leave a lot to be desired. Luckily, we passed a hotel on the way which offered secure parking and proved to be a nice joint. After getting settled, we headed into town for a few hours.
One of the highlights of Copan Ruinas was a restaurant called Lola’s. It straddled the fine line between having some native authenticity and catering strictly to tourists. When you enter, it does sort of resemble a chain restaurant - goofy stuff on the walls, lots of license plates from the USA - but once you realize you are actually eating in Honduras, that feeling quickly disappears. Don’t take my word at this, but Mexico was the last country we visited with a strong culinary that seemed to have a strong culinary tradition. In hindsight, I kind of viewed these countries as sort of being similar - when in fact they all have their own cultural distinctions. It only makes sense that they wouldn’t have a lot of the same cuisine. A lot of Central America seems to revolve around beans and rice - which is absolutely delicious by the way.
Since we had eaten in quite some time, Lola’s ended up being an extended lunch/dinner combination meal. The crew wandered around for an hour or two and then headed back to the hotel. John had purchased some very good rum in Guatemala which we enjoyed before bed.
After a solid night of rest, we explored the Mayan ruins of Copan. We hired an English speaking guide named Saul. He proved to be an excellent guide and it was a very enjoyable way to see the ruins. We needed a little variety after seeing so many.
After spending the morning at Copan, we loaded up the trucks and attempted to find the first microbrew established in Honduras. That didn’t work. We ended up camping next door after the microbrew/b&b was full. The next day, we crossed the border into NIcaragua.
Today (3-9-09) we drove from the town of Esteli to Leon. Our campsite last night turned out to be a private country-club. A fellow overlander had recommended the site and when we pulled in, it was being used for a private party. After negotiating with the guard and spending a couple hours in town, we managed to worm our way in and actually set up camp on the tennis courts. Our vehicles attract attention everywhere we go, and this was no exception. Several of us spent an hour talking with the Minister of Ecology for the country of Nicaragua, who happened to be attending the party.
Today we drove the second biggest city in Nicaragua - Leon. I’ve never encountered roads like this before. They were practically off-road trails. I’m talking about potholes so big they could swallow my Jeep whole. Luckily, the potholes didn’t last the entire drive and we made it to Leon by 1. The group spent the day lounging and taking care of business.
We have all of tomorrow in Leon and then it’s off to Masaya.
Chuck
We crossed the border and entered Copan Ruinas on March 5th. The narrow streets of the city center proved to be a formidable challenge for the LT so Dad waited near the entrance while James, Scott and I attempted to find a suitable establishment. We did find an enterprising young man who tried to help us find a camp site, but the one he showed us was a public campground which did leave a lot to be desired. Luckily, we passed a hotel on the way which offered secure parking and proved to be a nice joint. After getting settled, we headed into town for a few hours.
One of the highlights of Copan Ruinas was a restaurant called Lola’s. It straddled the fine line between having some native authenticity and catering strictly to tourists. When you enter, it does sort of resemble a chain restaurant - goofy stuff on the walls, lots of license plates from the USA - but once you realize you are actually eating in Honduras, that feeling quickly disappears. Don’t take my word at this, but Mexico was the last country we visited with a strong culinary that seemed to have a strong culinary tradition. In hindsight, I kind of viewed these countries as sort of being similar - when in fact they all have their own cultural distinctions. It only makes sense that they wouldn’t have a lot of the same cuisine. A lot of Central America seems to revolve around beans and rice - which is absolutely delicious by the way.
Since we had eaten in quite some time, Lola’s ended up being an extended lunch/dinner combination meal. The crew wandered around for an hour or two and then headed back to the hotel. John had purchased some very good rum in Guatemala which we enjoyed before bed.
After a solid night of rest, we explored the Mayan ruins of Copan. We hired an English speaking guide named Saul. He proved to be an excellent guide and it was a very enjoyable way to see the ruins. We needed a little variety after seeing so many.
After spending the morning at Copan, we loaded up the trucks and attempted to find the first microbrew established in Honduras. That didn’t work. We ended up camping next door after the microbrew/b&b was full. The next day, we crossed the border into NIcaragua.
Today (3-9-09) we drove from the town of Esteli to Leon. Our campsite last night turned out to be a private country-club. A fellow overlander had recommended the site and when we pulled in, it was being used for a private party. After negotiating with the guard and spending a couple hours in town, we managed to worm our way in and actually set up camp on the tennis courts. Our vehicles attract attention everywhere we go, and this was no exception. Several of us spent an hour talking with the Minister of Ecology for the country of Nicaragua, who happened to be attending the party.
Today we drove the second biggest city in Nicaragua - Leon. I’ve never encountered roads like this before. They were practically off-road trails. I’m talking about potholes so big they could swallow my Jeep whole. Luckily, the potholes didn’t last the entire drive and we made it to Leon by 1. The group spent the day lounging and taking care of business.
We have all of tomorrow in Leon and then it’s off to Masaya.
Chuck
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Out of all the countries I've visited on this trip, Honduras has surprised me the most. First of all, the drivers are absolutely insane. I've never been passed at such high speed around blind corners before...and the vehicles passing me are semi-trucks. It was quite the thrilling experience and one I hope to avoid repeating.
Honduras wasn't extremely exciting, but it was extremely pleasant. Our one adventure came when we tried to find the first microbrewery ever opened in Honduras and we ended up driving on poorly-lit (but well paved) Honduran roads at night while it rained.
The ruins of Copan were very cool. The carvings were by far the best preserved of any of the Mayan sites we've seen so far. I'll try and do a whole entry concerning Copan in the near future.
I'll go more in-depth about Honduras soon. I'm beat. By the way, I'm writing this from Nicaragua and it's just about time to get some major beach action in.
Chuck
Honduras wasn't extremely exciting, but it was extremely pleasant. Our one adventure came when we tried to find the first microbrewery ever opened in Honduras and we ended up driving on poorly-lit (but well paved) Honduran roads at night while it rained.
The ruins of Copan were very cool. The carvings were by far the best preserved of any of the Mayan sites we've seen so far. I'll try and do a whole entry concerning Copan in the near future.
I'll go more in-depth about Honduras soon. I'm beat. By the way, I'm writing this from Nicaragua and it's just about time to get some major beach action in.
Chuck
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Hustlin' in Honduras
Another day, another country - or so it can seem. Today we left Guatemala and entered Honduras. The border crossing was one of the smoothest. This contrasts with what I heard last night from a fellow Cedar Rapidian(!) who mentioned that he was robbed by border guards 5 or so years ago. He did mention he was by himself and that he crossed over at a remote northern border crossing. Our advantage is in numbers - if one of us is held up, we all stop.
Honduras seems cool so far. We're staying in the town of Copan Ruinas. This means Copan Ruins, which is interesting because the actual ruins of Copan are about a 1 kilometer away. This appears to be a nice way to force you to wander through the city instead of heading directly to the ruins. The town is actually pretty nice - it's a solid mix of Hondurans and foreign tourists.
We're heading to Copan tomorrow around 8 and staying until lunch until we hit the road again. Due to the driving distance and the supposed difficulty of bringing vehicles into El Salvador, we're going to abandon that plan and spend extra time in Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. While we won't get to "touch 'em all" (visit every country) we will get to spend more time on the beach.
Chuck
Honduras seems cool so far. We're staying in the town of Copan Ruinas. This means Copan Ruins, which is interesting because the actual ruins of Copan are about a 1 kilometer away. This appears to be a nice way to force you to wander through the city instead of heading directly to the ruins. The town is actually pretty nice - it's a solid mix of Hondurans and foreign tourists.
We're heading to Copan tomorrow around 8 and staying until lunch until we hit the road again. Due to the driving distance and the supposed difficulty of bringing vehicles into El Salvador, we're going to abandon that plan and spend extra time in Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. While we won't get to "touch 'em all" (visit every country) we will get to spend more time on the beach.
Chuck
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Blog goofiness
For some reason, my post "Last Day in Guatemala" was posted before "Jungle Fever Part 2". It should be the other way around. Odd.
Jungle Fever Pt. 2
The next morning we had the opportunity to explore the Mayan City of Nakum. This city is still being actively excavated and renovated. The buildings are beautiful - they look much more authentic then what we had seen before. Many of the reconstructions we have seen were done in the ‘60s and ‘70s and use modern cement and building techniques, which takes away from their overall look. Scientists have been able to reconstruct the recipe of Mayan cement and this is being used to restore Nakum.
The archeologists have done a fantastic job excavating the structures as well - the site looks much more natural then many of the others we’ve seen. There’s still plenty more to find - there are dozens of mounds which are actually buried Mayan buildings littering the site. We encountered a very nice Spanish team of architects and chatted with them for a few minutes.
Then it was time to load up the trucks and head into the jungle for some overlanding. I had a fantastic time plowing through muddy trails and scraping through narrow spots. The other Jeep got stuck and we did get to break out our winching gear for a quick rescue session.
The turn-off onto the trail was totally overgrown. We actually drove right past the entrance because it was so overgrown. In hindsight, we should have known that this would be the exception rather then the norm.
As soon as we hit the trail, we knew things were going to get a little interesting. The pace was slow as vegetation had to be hacked away and trees were blocking the road regularly. I initially sat in the truck with my Dad and really had no idea what was going on up ahead. After an hour or two I decided to go offer some help to Scott, James, and Cyril who were attempting to clear the vegetation from our path.
It was hot, sweaty, hard work. I was mostly support at first - Scott and James would swing machetes and clear minor vegetation while Cyril would carry the chainsaw in case we came to any fallen trees. We went on like this for hours. I was able to shoot some footage for Scott as he guided a Jeep through a tight spot. I even got the chance to swing a machete for a while. These things take some experience before one becomes proficient at swinging it. I soon discovered that the key to using a machete effectively was efficiency - swing only at what’s important or you will quickly tire out your arm.
This continued until about 9:00 PM. I became a flashlight caddy for one of our expedition members as he hiked ahead to clear minor vegetation. It’s quite an experience to have only a dying Maglite and a headlamp for illumination in the pitch-black jungle. Night time in the jungle is also incredibly noisy - you have insects, birds, and nocturnal mammals all becoming active. I have to admit I was a little nervous at first but quickly became used to it.
We were ravenous by the time we reached camp. Cyril came to the rescue - he had brought his gaucho (basically an Argentinean cowboy) grill and ten pounds of Argentinean meat. We feasted.
I should discuss our campsite. We camped in what was the main plaza of the Mayan town of Holmul. The thing was, our campsite was almost completely unexcavated. There were two enormous mounds which were actually temples to either side of us.
When morning hit, the group spent some time poking around the ruins before we hit the trail. It was supposed to be 5 hours until we were back to our starting point, but it turned out to be more like 10 hours. We didn’t emerge from the jungle until 4 or 5 at night. By the time we reached Flores it was 7:30 PM.
There’s nothing like eating at a Guatemalan PIzza Hut after driving through the jungle all day. I nearly ate an entire large thin crust Pepperoni pizza myself. It was much too late to try to find a campsite so we decided a hotel was our best option.
Thus ended our jungle adventure.
The archeologists have done a fantastic job excavating the structures as well - the site looks much more natural then many of the others we’ve seen. There’s still plenty more to find - there are dozens of mounds which are actually buried Mayan buildings littering the site. We encountered a very nice Spanish team of architects and chatted with them for a few minutes.
Then it was time to load up the trucks and head into the jungle for some overlanding. I had a fantastic time plowing through muddy trails and scraping through narrow spots. The other Jeep got stuck and we did get to break out our winching gear for a quick rescue session.
The turn-off onto the trail was totally overgrown. We actually drove right past the entrance because it was so overgrown. In hindsight, we should have known that this would be the exception rather then the norm.
As soon as we hit the trail, we knew things were going to get a little interesting. The pace was slow as vegetation had to be hacked away and trees were blocking the road regularly. I initially sat in the truck with my Dad and really had no idea what was going on up ahead. After an hour or two I decided to go offer some help to Scott, James, and Cyril who were attempting to clear the vegetation from our path.
It was hot, sweaty, hard work. I was mostly support at first - Scott and James would swing machetes and clear minor vegetation while Cyril would carry the chainsaw in case we came to any fallen trees. We went on like this for hours. I was able to shoot some footage for Scott as he guided a Jeep through a tight spot. I even got the chance to swing a machete for a while. These things take some experience before one becomes proficient at swinging it. I soon discovered that the key to using a machete effectively was efficiency - swing only at what’s important or you will quickly tire out your arm.
This continued until about 9:00 PM. I became a flashlight caddy for one of our expedition members as he hiked ahead to clear minor vegetation. It’s quite an experience to have only a dying Maglite and a headlamp for illumination in the pitch-black jungle. Night time in the jungle is also incredibly noisy - you have insects, birds, and nocturnal mammals all becoming active. I have to admit I was a little nervous at first but quickly became used to it.
We were ravenous by the time we reached camp. Cyril came to the rescue - he had brought his gaucho (basically an Argentinean cowboy) grill and ten pounds of Argentinean meat. We feasted.
I should discuss our campsite. We camped in what was the main plaza of the Mayan town of Holmul. The thing was, our campsite was almost completely unexcavated. There were two enormous mounds which were actually temples to either side of us.
When morning hit, the group spent some time poking around the ruins before we hit the trail. It was supposed to be 5 hours until we were back to our starting point, but it turned out to be more like 10 hours. We didn’t emerge from the jungle until 4 or 5 at night. By the time we reached Flores it was 7:30 PM.
There’s nothing like eating at a Guatemalan PIzza Hut after driving through the jungle all day. I nearly ate an entire large thin crust Pepperoni pizza myself. It was much too late to try to find a campsite so we decided a hotel was our best option.
Thus ended our jungle adventure.
Last day in Guatemala
It's been a relaxing couple of days. Yesterday, we were supposed to drive to the town of Antigua but after spending all morning power-washing our vehicles, it was decided we didn't need to have another 8 hour driving day. I certainly wasn't in a mood to drive after spending 3.5 hours watching our vehicles at the car wash. This wasn't an ordinary car wash though, it specialized in cleaning vehicles that have spent time in the jungle. Manuel (the owner) and his crew spent over an hour on each vehicle - I've never seen a cleaner Jeep.
Serendipity is an interesting thing. I was getting ready to head back to our hotel and pack up when we met a Belizean man named Neal at the car wash. He turned out to own a lodge that has been frequented by overlanders in the past. With our day rapidly being eaten up by errands, the executive decision was made to call it a day and spend another night in Flores - and we would stay at Neal's lodge.
Well, we made the right choice. The lodge was awesome. The coolest feature is a restaurant with a deck that overlooks Lake Peten and has an absolutely stunning view. He let us drive our vehicles onto his property and guests can stay in some nice bungalows he has built. The name is escaping me, but I'll post when I recall it.
Tonight we're staying at a placed called Bruno's near the Honduran border. The drive today was simple and only took a couple of hours which was very nice. Tomorrow we're camping near the Mayan city of Copan. Big photo updates coming soon!
Charlie
Serendipity is an interesting thing. I was getting ready to head back to our hotel and pack up when we met a Belizean man named Neal at the car wash. He turned out to own a lodge that has been frequented by overlanders in the past. With our day rapidly being eaten up by errands, the executive decision was made to call it a day and spend another night in Flores - and we would stay at Neal's lodge.
Well, we made the right choice. The lodge was awesome. The coolest feature is a restaurant with a deck that overlooks Lake Peten and has an absolutely stunning view. He let us drive our vehicles onto his property and guests can stay in some nice bungalows he has built. The name is escaping me, but I'll post when I recall it.
Tonight we're staying at a placed called Bruno's near the Honduran border. The drive today was simple and only took a couple of hours which was very nice. Tomorrow we're camping near the Mayan city of Copan. Big photo updates coming soon!
Charlie
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Jungle Fever
Part 1.
After a solid night of sleep after our jungle adventure, I think I’m rested enough to describe our trip.
We left Belize on Saturday and crossed into Guatemala. Border crossings are all similar and involve two things: lines and paperwork. This was no exception. We actually have to import and export our vehicles upon entering/exiting so this can take a couple of hours. My dad installed a printer in his truck and it’s really been helpful (photocopies, scanning, etc).
The main “highway” from our border crossing to the town of Flores was a dusty, potholed road that nearly shook my fillings out. Massive craters littered the road and it was almost like driving through a slalom course with all the swerving one had to do. After hitting Flores we enjoyed some Guatemalan chinese food and waited for our guide, Cyril to show up.
Cyril is a Frenchman residing in Guatemala who happens to have corresponded with Scott and agreed to be to lead the expedition. He also has a beautiful mint Range Rover. Europeans travel in style.
After finally getting everything together and soon after leaving we hit the jungle. This road was real deal - it was muddy, narrow, and enclosed by vegetation. Apparently once the dry season hits, they grade the road and 18-wheelers barrel through to do logging. I wouldn’t want to run into one of those on the road.
We didn’t make it into camp until nearly 10:30 that night. Progress was a bit slow and driving through the dark in the jungle is quite the experience. Cyril has been leaving here in Central America for quite some time so he has learned to drive like a local - extremely fast. This even extends to trail driving. Unfortunately for him, we couldn’t quite keep up.
By the time we hit camp, we were all exhausted. Dinner was a few beers and some peanut butter on crackers. I had a good time picking Cyril’s brain about various facts about the jungle. Right after he described the difference between cattle mutilated by a puma and cattle mutilated by a jaguar we started hearing a horrific noise off in the distance. We didn’t find this out until morning, but the cause of the ruckus was howler monkeys. These things are louder then you can imagine. I just found out that they are the loudest animal on land.
The next day is when we started encountering real action. The morning was a lot of fun and I got to hit some serious mud in my truck. After lunch, everything changed.The trail we hit had been abandoned for a year.
After a solid night of sleep after our jungle adventure, I think I’m rested enough to describe our trip.
We left Belize on Saturday and crossed into Guatemala. Border crossings are all similar and involve two things: lines and paperwork. This was no exception. We actually have to import and export our vehicles upon entering/exiting so this can take a couple of hours. My dad installed a printer in his truck and it’s really been helpful (photocopies, scanning, etc).
The main “highway” from our border crossing to the town of Flores was a dusty, potholed road that nearly shook my fillings out. Massive craters littered the road and it was almost like driving through a slalom course with all the swerving one had to do. After hitting Flores we enjoyed some Guatemalan chinese food and waited for our guide, Cyril to show up.
Cyril is a Frenchman residing in Guatemala who happens to have corresponded with Scott and agreed to be to lead the expedition. He also has a beautiful mint Range Rover. Europeans travel in style.
After finally getting everything together and soon after leaving we hit the jungle. This road was real deal - it was muddy, narrow, and enclosed by vegetation. Apparently once the dry season hits, they grade the road and 18-wheelers barrel through to do logging. I wouldn’t want to run into one of those on the road.
We didn’t make it into camp until nearly 10:30 that night. Progress was a bit slow and driving through the dark in the jungle is quite the experience. Cyril has been leaving here in Central America for quite some time so he has learned to drive like a local - extremely fast. This even extends to trail driving. Unfortunately for him, we couldn’t quite keep up.
By the time we hit camp, we were all exhausted. Dinner was a few beers and some peanut butter on crackers. I had a good time picking Cyril’s brain about various facts about the jungle. Right after he described the difference between cattle mutilated by a puma and cattle mutilated by a jaguar we started hearing a horrific noise off in the distance. We didn’t find this out until morning, but the cause of the ruckus was howler monkeys. These things are louder then you can imagine. I just found out that they are the loudest animal on land.
The next day is when we started encountering real action. The morning was a lot of fun and I got to hit some serious mud in my truck. After lunch, everything changed.The trail we hit had been abandoned for a year.
Monday, March 2, 2009
After three long days we’re finally out of the jungle. It was an incredible experience but an extremely tiring one. We spent spent yesterday hacking our way through an overgrown path that hadn’t been touched in over a year. This was honest-to-god bushwacking - we used two machetes and a chainsaw. It took us all day, but we finally got to our camp at about 9:30 last night. Today wasn’t as physically exhausting but it was long so I’m going to keep this entry short and I’ll detail the full experience tomorrow.
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